India's handloom heritage weaves a colorful tapestry of culture, history, and craftsmanship. For centuries, handloom weaving has been a vital artistic expression in the country, with each region boasting its unique style, technique, and motifs. These vibrant fabrics are not only eco-friendly and beautiful but also provide livelihoods to millions of skilled artisans across rural and urban areas.
But in contrast, the handloom sector faces challenges in the modern market. The rise of power looms and synthetic fabrics, lack of design innovation, quality control issues, inadequate infrastructure, credit facilities, low wages, and social recognition pose threats to this ancient art form. The COVID-19 pandemic has only added to the struggles, disrupting supply chains and affecting demand for handloom products.
As we commemorate National Handloom Day on August 7, we pay tribute to the resilience and creativity of handloom weavers and acknowledge their significant contribution to India's economy and identity. In this celebration, we shine a spotlight on seven inspiring women who have emerged as pioneers in promoting, reviving, and reinventing the handloom industry in India. Through their vision, passion, and expertise, these women have left an indelible mark on the handloom sector.
Anupriya Mridha
Anupriya Mridha, a talented textile designer, founded VaniVrtti, a social enterprise dedicated to working with handloom weavers and artisans in Odisha. Her mission is to support and develop the handloom and handicraft sector of the state through design intervention, product development, market linkages, and skill training.
Working with fabrics like ikat, bomkai, sambalpuri, kotpad, and tussar silk, Anupriya emphasizes sustainability by incorporating natural dyes and organic cotton. Her efforts not only preserve traditional artistry but also uplift the lives of weavers.
Anavila Misra
Fashion designer Anavila Misra has redefined the classic handloom saree with her unique minimalistic design aesthetic. Collaborating with over 200 weavers from Phulia, West Bengal, she uses natural fibers and dyes to create lightweight and comfortable sarees suitable for everyday wear. Her experimental approach with textures, patterns, and colors has resulted in modern sarees that resonate with contemporary Indian women.
Laila Tyabji
As a social worker, designer, writer, and craft activist, Laila Tyabji co-founded Dastkar, an NGO committed to the revival of traditional crafts in India. For over three decades, she has worked closely with craftspersons from Gujarat, Bihar, Rajasthan, Assam, and Kerala. Her efforts encompass design guidance, product development, market information, and entrepreneurship training. Through her advocacy, she seeks to secure their rights, welfare, and recognition. Her commitment has been recognized with several prestigious awards.
Rama Srinivasan
Rama Srinivasan's passion for textiles led her to establish Studio Rama, a label offering an exquisite range of handcrafted sarees. Working with diverse handloom clusters across India, such as Chanderi, Maheshwari, Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, Bengal Cottons, and Tussars,
Rama experiments with textures, colors, and embellishments to create contemporary sarees that resonate with the modern woman. Through workshops and exhibitions, she spreads awareness about the beauty and diversity of Indian handlooms.
Rta Kapur Chishti:
As India's leading textile scholar, author, editor, and entrepreneur, Rta Kapur Chishti is a prominent authority on the saree and its history. Through Taanbaan, her brand, she offers an exclusive variety of handloom, indigenous organic cottons, and low-twist silks. Rta is also the founder of The Sari School, an initiative promoting the art of wearing saree in various styles and drapes. Her extensive research and documentation projects have significantly contributed to the preservation of Indian textiles and crafts.
Sunita Shanker
Renowned fashion designer Sunita Shanker is known for her innovative use of traditional crafts in garments. Collaborating with handloom weavers from different regions, including Kutch, Bhagalpur, Banaras, Andhra Pradesh, and Madhya Pradesh, she blends various yarns like silk, cotton, wool, and linen with techniques like bandhani, kantha, applique, block printing, and zari work. The result is a collection of minimalist and elegant silhouettes that showcase the richness and versatility of Indian handlooms.
Vinti Goenka
Vinti Goenka, based in Singapore, is a renowned designer and curator who brings forth a stunning collection of hand-woven fabrics from states like Varanasi, Gujarat, and Andhra Pradesh. Her sourcing of authentic handloom fabrics such as silk, tussar, georgette, kora, and linen from master weavers showcases the rich craftsmanship of Patan Patola, Bandhani, Lucknowi Chikankari, Nilambari, Rakhtambari, Jamdani, Kalamkari, and Banarasi sarees. Each design is a masterpiece, unique, and never repeated.
As we celebrate National Handloom Day, our hearts resonate with gratitude for these exceptional women who have dedicated their lives to safeguarding and exalting India's handloom legacy. Their unwavering dedication breathes life into this ancient art, fortifying countless artisans and nurturing a vibrant tradition. They embody the alchemy of passion, ingenuity, and empathy, infusing the handloom sector with inclusivity and vitality.
Let us embrace our role as custodians of this heritage, weaving a tapestry of support to ensure that the intricate threads of tradition continue to weave magic for generations. Let us extend our warmest wishes on this special occasion of National Handloom Day and celebrate it with great enthusiasm. Happy National Handloom Day!
